Skincare is more than just a trend or vanity pursuit, especially when it comes to transgender health. For transwoman, it is one of the first steps we can take to pass more effectively, and for transmen, it is one of the biggest challenges as Testosterone is associated with acne growth.
Therefore, it is imperative to take care of our skin and view this activity as part of our gender transition process.
## Skincare starts with understanding this:
It is much easier to maintain good skin, rather than fix bad skin.
There are a lot of guides out there on skincare, but in essence, there are three processes. These are ranked chronologically to make it easier to understand. I know a lot of people out there are lazy -including me- so this method is also relatively minimalist: it addresses the issues as quickly and thoroughly for the lowest amount of work. Let’s start:
1. Protect
2. Clean
3. Rejuvenate
### Protect
Protecting your skin is relatively simple. Use SPF30/PA+++ sunscreen, stop smoking, and stop drinking.
#### Sun/UV radiation ####
The damaging effects of the sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays are well-documented. Prolonged exposure to the sun without protection can lead to sunburns, premature aging, and even skin cancer. This is why incorporating sunscreen into your daily skincare routine is of paramount importance.
Sunscreen, with its ability to block or absorb UV radiation, acts as a shield for your skin. It forms a protective barrier that minimizes the penetration of harmful rays. Look for broad-spectrum sunscreens that protect against both UVA and UVB rays. Apply it generously to all exposed areas of the body, even on cloudy days, and reapply every two hours, or more frequently if you are sweating or swimming.
UVA is the one associated with skin aging and tanning.
UVB is the shorter and more powerful wavelength associated with skin cancer.
PA is short for "Protection Grade of UVA"
SPF is short for "Sun Protective Factor"
Try to pick a product with a PA+++ factor, and SPF 30 or higher.
#### Smoking
Smoking poses numerous detrimental effects on the skin, both in the short term and the long term. The chemicals present in cigarettes, such as nicotine and carbon monoxide, constrict blood vessels and reduce the oxygen and nutrient supply to the skin. This leads to a dull complexion, uneven skin tone, and a lack of healthy glow.
Smoking is also known to accelerate the aging process, resulting in premature wrinkles, fine lines, and sagging skin. It degrades collagen and elastin, two essential proteins responsible for maintaining skin elasticity and firmness. Additionally, smoking increases the production of harmful free radicals, which can damage collagen fibers and impair the skin's ability to repair itself.
Quitting smoking can significantly improve the health and appearance of your skin. Within weeks of cessation, blood circulation improves, allowing more oxygen and nutrients to reach the skin. Over time, skin elasticity improves, and wrinkles and fine lines may become less noticeable. Quitting smoking not only benefits your overall health but also enhances your skin's vitality and radiance.
#### Alcohol
While moderate alcohol consumption may not have severe adverse effects on the skin, excessive and chronic alcohol intake can take a toll on its health. Alcohol is a diuretic, which means it dehydrates the body, including the skin. Dehydration can lead to dryness, flakiness, and an increased susceptibility to wrinkles and fine lines.
Alcohol can also cause inflammation and dilation of blood vessels, resulting in facial redness and the appearance of broken capillaries. This condition, known as rosacea, can be exacerbated by alcohol consumption. Additionally, excessive alcohol intake compromises liver function, hindering its ability to detoxify the body effectively. Toxins and waste products accumulate, which can manifest as skin issues like acne, dullness, and a lack of radiance.
Reducing alcohol consumption or eliminating it altogether can bring about significant improvements in your skin's health. Your skin will retain more moisture, becoming plumper and more supple. The reduction in inflammation and redness can help alleviate skin conditions like rosacea. By allowing your liver to function optimally, you enhance your body's ability to eliminate toxins, promoting a clearer and more vibrant complexion.
### Cleansing
Facewash is the cornerstone of any effective skincare routine. It helps remove dirt, excess oil, makeup, and impurities that accumulate on the skin throughout the day. Cleansing also promotes the health of your skin by preventing clogged pores, breakouts, and inflammation.
Choosing the right facewash product is essential for maintaining a healthy complexion. Different skin types require different formulations, so identify your skin type—whether it is dry, oily, combination, or sensitive—and select a facewash accordingly. For oily or acne-prone skin, opt for oil-free or gel-based cleansers that help control excess sebum production. If you have dry or sensitive skin, choose mild, hydrating cleansers that preserve your skin's natural moisture barrier.
Consistency is key when it comes to cleansing. Make it a habit to cleanse your face twice a day, once in the morning and once before bed. Gently massage the cleanser onto your skin in circular motions, and rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. By incorporating this step into your daily routine, you will maintain a clean and refreshed complexion.
### Rejuvenation
As we age, our skin undergoes a natural process of collagen and elastin depletion, leading to sagging, fine lines, and a dull complexion. This is where rejuvenation steps in, and can be done with a few core ingredients. They are, retinoic acids, galactomyces, and copper peptides.
Copper peptides are small protein fragments that contain copper ions. They have gained popularity in the skincare industry due to their ability to stimulate collagen production and promote skin rejuvenation. Copper peptides work by enhancing the skin's natural healing processes, accelerating cell turnover, and improving overall skin texture and tone.
When incorporating copper peptides into your skincare routine, look for products such as serums or creams that contain a suitable concentration. Apply them after cleansing, following the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It is important to note that while copper peptides can deliver remarkable results, patience is required as they work gradually to improve the skin's appearance.